A ZVS driver generate high voltages and of very high intensity unlike my Flyback high voltage generator where the intensity was low.
The ZVS driver is a simple project, but it requires the right components. Because the circuit consumes a lot, need components capable of supporting the intensity.
For the mosfet, it is recommended to have a Vds at least 4 times the voltage as input. Usually, the mosfets that have a minimum 200V Vds should do the job. Also, these same mosfet must be smaller than 150 mOHM Rds. So I suggest you take the IRFP260N or the IRFP250, since these are the most used in this kind of project and it meet the minimum requirements.
Then, need you a capacitor. In the diagram, it shows 0.68 uF. Suggests to be a large capacitor or am several capacitors to the same value. During tests of the circuits, we note that the capacitor hot many, therefore using several capacitors, is better distributed heat.
Also, need you fast diodes. In fact, it is rather fast ultra diodes that have a maximum of 60 ns. In addition, it is recommended to take 400V diodes and more.
For food, I recommend 12V acid batteries. You can put up to 2 or 3 in series to have voltages of 12V, 24V and 36V. More increase you the voltage input, more intensity increases, so be careful with this type of battery. If the tension of these falls below 11.4V, your batteries may be damaged.
HKSS ZVS Driver :
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Flyback High Voltage Generator
Détails
Philippe Bourgault
Flyback transformers are often found in the cathode ray tube screens as they require a high voltage.
With a transformer flyback of this kind and a swinging like mine system, one can reach voltages output can go to thousands of volts. With a swing under 12V, it gets about 8 kV output.
My little editing works with a 555 Timer, a few resistors and some capacitors. When everything is connected as shown in the illustration, one gets to pin 3 of the 555 output, a frequency ranging from 15 kHz to 110 kHz. With a wide range of frequency like this, we can test different flyback. The flyback do work not all on the same frequency, that's why my oscillator offers a wide frequency band. In this way, you can test and find the best option for the output voltage.
For transferred energy to the flyback and increase voltage, turn a wire on the ferrite core attached to the flyback. Usually, 10 rounds are sufficient to operate the system. Once your flyback function, you can adjust the number of laps so that your transistor heats up less and have better performance in output.
Arcs are generally formed on the third pin from the right. You make your own tests!
Also, it is very IMPORTANT to the transistor on a heat sink. If your sink is not very large, install a fan to compensate. The system heats much! Under 12V, after 3 to 5 minutes, my heat sink became hot!
The real name is SGTC (Spark Gap Tesla Coil). Most of the time, a large neon sign transformer (spark gap) is used.
The principle of a tesla coil is similar to that of a transformer. There is a primary coil with large wire and few turns and a secondary coil with small wire and many towers. So if, for example, we send a voltage of 100V in the primary coil and the ratio of our coils is 1: 100, we will get 10000V at the output. But, in fact, it's a little more complex than that ...
The circuit is divided into two parts. The first is the spark gap formed by the capacitor (C1) and the primary coil (L1). The second part consists of the secondary coil (L2) and the toroid which acts as a capacitor (C2). In order for your tesla coil to work correctly, the first part (L1 and C1) must be tuned to the second part (L2 and C2). To do this, the frequency of resonance is used! If your first part has the same resonant frequency as your second part, then there is going to be an energy transfer. Otherwise, nothing will happen at all. To tune your circuits, you can use the formula: L1C1 = L2C2. Then to find the resonant frequency of your system, simply apply the following formula:
For the primary coil, I use 0.375 "diameter copper tubing for all physical reasons. When a strong current with a high frequency passes through a copper wire, the energy is projected onto the walls of the wire because of the skin effect also called the pellicular effect. Thus, by using a tube, the capacity of the tesla coil is optimized. For the secondary coil, I use 28 AWG wire. It took about 1600 feet of wire to make about 1600 turns on a 4 "diameter PVC pipe.
If you plan to make a tesla coil with semiconductors as an SSTC, I strongly suggest you use HGTG30N60A4D IGBT transistors that you can purchase in the Fairchild section of Farnell. These are the most used IGBTs for this kind of project!
For my first part with the C1 and L1, I use four capacitors in series of 0.15uF / 2000V each, making 0.0375uF under 8000V.
Most people who make a tesla coil of this type use neon sign transformers (NST -> Neon Sign Transformer). These transformers are perfect because they provide very high voltages with very low current. Unlike microwave transformers that offer a very high current, which can be dangerous. Me, I decided to make a system with electronic components to reduce the weight that a NST transformer produces. So I looked at a MOSFET-based system like Mazilli's. This is a ZVS Driver. (Zero Voltage Switching). This is similar to my project on flybacks, but the difference stems from the fact that it is much more powerful in terms of current.
Under 12V my system consumes about 4A and creates arcs of about 15 cm. When I triple the input voltage, that is to say if I use 36V, my system consumes about 6A and creates arcs of about 25 cm as in the picture below.
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<--- Schematic
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<--- Source Code in C
Good luck for building your tesla coil! The best advice I can give you is to do a lot of research to understand the principle of operation before you embark on the concrete realization of your project. Also, be very careful, because it is a very dangerous project. Take precautions, be careful!
Automatic Light
Détails
Philippe Bourgault
My automatic light simply turns on when it detects a human presence.
I installed my automatic light system on my control panel for aesthetic reasons, but the circuit only handles the white dome and the red LED. The white dome is actually a motion detector that activates in the presence of a person in the room. If the sensor detects a presence, the 3mm red LED lights up.
If there is movement, the sensor is activated and the PIC is programmed to activate a relay and keep it active for about 20 seconds. If at the end of this period the PIC detects no movement, it deactivates the relay after 20 seconds. On the other hand, if it detects the presence of a movement, it reinitializes the loop over a new period of 20 seconds and this process repeats as long as it detects a human presence. The light stays on as long as a person is active in the room.
A delay of 20 seconds seems reasonable, but it all depends on what is done in the room. For example, for me who works electronics, 20 to 40 seconds is ample enough since I move! But if you work on the computer or read a book, a longer time will be necessary indeed, when one reads or when one works on computer, one moves practically not.
The motion detector retained is the HC-SR501. The dome-shaped soccer ball allows for a wider view. With this dome the sensor can perceive movements over a distance of up to 5m, which is enough to analyze the volume of a room in a house! In addition, this sensor has a viewing angle of 110 degrees!
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<--- Source code in C
Automatic Store
Détails
Philippe Bourgault
My automatic store allows to open and close a curtain without effort.
My store is equipped with a servo motor that allows it to move up and down without a problem. I purchased the servo motor SM-S4309R available at futurlec.com (http://www.futurlec.com/Servo_Motor.shtml) this engine has a force of 8.7 Kg/cm. What is needed to raise the curtain. Since I installed my engine on the same side as my curtain, I had to put the gear so that the rotational movement is further away than the engine. I put in 3, so the rotation of the driven wheel is the same as the rotation of the motor. In addition, my 3 gears have the same number of teeth which does not affect the speed.
To control the engine, I use an arduino uno. The code is simple and can be suitable for any size of store given, that I created 2 variables. One to bring down the store and the other to move up. Simply just change the value of these two variables to adapt it to your store.
The circuit is super simple. It is composed of only 2 switches. I solder my switch on a plate and I put a connector to connect it easily on my arduino uno.
The circuit works 5V as on a microcontroller and consumes between 400 and 800 mA depending on the engine, or depending on the load that the engine pulls.